Pavlovsk

The Pavlovsk ensemble of palaces and parks is situated on the banks of the picturesque river Slavyanka, 28 km from St. Petersburg. Pavlovsk is the youngest of the Leningrad sub­urbs. Leningraders are fond of this place and come here at all times of the year.

In 1777, Catherine II presented these lands to her son, the future Emperor Paul I, so that he could build his summer residence here. Another gesture of benevolence was send­ing him her favourite architect, Charles Cameron, who had already proved his worth at Tsarskoye Selo which was now compared to all that was best in Europe. Pavlovsk was indeed a godsend for Cameron, something an architect could only dream of. He did not have to rebuild or remodel anything, or to adapt himself to the designs of his pre­decessors. He could begin from scratch. The natural surroundings suggested the architectural solution. He put up pavilions and sculptures on elevations. When fitting a bower into a river bend he saw to it that this did not interfere with the lines and forms of the landscape.

The architect surpassed himself. He designed the Grand Palace, one of the finest examples of Russian classicism, the Apollo Colonnade and the Temple of Friendship pavilions, and the impressive sixteen-column Three Graces Pavilion.

Among other prominent architects who built Pavlovsk were Thomas de Thomon (the Mausoleum}, Carlo Rossi (the Iron Gate -- the main entrance to the park, and many drawings of railings, benches and pavilions), and Andrei Voronikhin (Viscontes Bridge and Centaur Bridge near the Cold Bath pavilion).

The park was landscaped by another great master, Pietro Gonzaga, who worked on it for twenty-five years, from 1803 to 1828.

The alleys of this old park have romantic names -- the Young Fiance, the Green Dame. the White Birch, etc. They are adorned with elegant sculptures, figures of lions, smart vases and quaint pavilions. The Pavlovsk park is one of the finest landscape parks to be found in Europe. In 1837, a concert hall, Vauxhall, as it was called, was built close to the Pavlovsk railway station. The first musical season was opened in the Vauxhall in the summer of 1838. Before long, Pavlovsk became St. Petersburg's musical centre. Johann Strauss, the king of waltz, conducted an orchestra there, and the great Chaliapin sang more than once.

The Vauxhall was destroyed by the Nazis during the war and there was no way of restoring it. But the musical traditions live on. Twice a month Petersburgers gather at the Greek Hall of the Grand Palace to listen to concerts of old chamber music.